Page 13 - Nepal Mountaineering Association

Kyazo Ri (6,186 m) is situated in the Khumbu Himal just north of Namche
Bazaar. It is the highest summit of a long line of peaks that separate the
Thame Valley to the west and Gokyo Valley to the east and run all the way to
Cho Oyu on the Nepal-Tibet border.
This is a classic trekking peak, seldom climbed, with a wonderfully isolated
base camp. It’s technically pleasing for experienced climbers and the summit
day’s climbing has been compared to that of Ama Dablam, though at only
m it requires much less acclimatization (and therefore time to do).
The normal route is south-facing, catching the sun, and has few objective
hazards such as rockfall or avalanche.
Basecamp is in a pristine, hidden valley known as the Kyajo Drangka, which
requires a long hike to reach it from Mende, about 4 km from Namche
Bazaar. See the fourth edition of the guide book “Trekking in the Everest
Region” for a description.
Reaching Camp 1 from Base Camp is a long day over rough, but non-
technical terrain. Camp 2 is a shorter distance from Camp 1 but the terrain
includes difficult scree and giant boulders. From Camp 2 to the summit is 12
pitches of steep snow and ice, most of which require belaying, with one or
two steep pitches of up to 65° gradient just below the summit.
Kyazo Ri
Peak Facts
Permit group: A
Height: 6186m - 20295ft
Latitude: 27.90903000
Longitude: 86.67118500
Location: Khumbu
Duration: 18 Days
Days 1-6:
Flight to Lukla from
Kathmandu. Trek to Namche Bazaar,
the capital of the Sherpa people. The
trek to the seclude base camp begins
from here.
Days: 7-14:
Days 15-18:
Trek out to Lukla.