Page 21 - Nepal Mountaineering Association

Bokta (6,143 m) is an intimidating peak in the Kanchenjunga region in
Eastern Nepal. Accomplished 8,000 m mountaineer Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
from Austria says that the Kanchenjunga region is her favourite place in
Nepal, “I love it because it’s so wild!”
The west side of Bokta is steep and technical, and the eastern side has no
straightforward route either. The most promising route is via the col to the
north of the mountain. From a high camp at the col, the route follows the
snow slope from under the right shoulder to the summit. While the slope is
moderately steep, the route suffers exposure to rock fall.
This challenging peak can be climbed by serious mountaineers in good
conditions. Bokta’s first ascent was by a Slovenian team in 1991.
It is a great addition to the wild Kanchenjunga trek. The region is quite
different to the other climbing areas mentioned, with many fewer trekkers.
The local Rai, Limbu and Sherpa make excellent Tongba, a fermented
millet drink, and many grow the spice Cardamon which has brought
wealth to the area.
Peak Facts
Permit group: A
Height: 6143m - 20154ft
Latitude: 27.62133800
Longitude: 88.00482300
Location: Kanchanjunga
Duration: 26 Days
Days 1-17:
Fly to Biratnagar and drive to
Taplejung. Trek along the Tamur river to the
pretty village of Ghunsa where the valley widens
bringing snowy tops into view. Continue to
Pangpema from where Kanchenjunga is visible
from the north. Return crossing the Lapsang La
and head to Bokta Base Camp.
Days 18-20:
Days 21-26:
Return via Lamite Bhanjyang
through Mamankhe and other beautiful Limbu
villages to reach the airstrip at Suketar.