Page 25 - Nepal Mountaineering Association

Phari Lapcha (6,017 m), is a peak in the Mahalangur range and lies just
south-west of the popular trekking area of the Gokyo Valley. Phari Lapcha
was only added to the permitted trekking peak list in 2002. It has since
become popular among talented climbers as it offers extremely challenging,
alpine-style, kilometer-tall lines on steep mixed ice and rock at a relatively low
Phari Lapcha itself has two summits and the East Summit (5,977 m) is
slightly lower than the main top. Phari Lapcha is sometimes confused with
Dawa Peak (5,920 m) to the north-west of the main summits, and has been
called Phari Lapcha West though it is arguably an entirely separate peak.
The first official ascent of the mountain was made in the spring of 2003 by
Slovenians Juliana and Rey Marcelo Belo with Sherpa support via the south
side of the mountain.
Since then there have been a handful of new technical routes put up on the
mountain – none of them easy – with names such as Bonfire Of The Vanities,
The end of the beginning and Independence Day.
Phari Lapcha
Peak Facts
Permit group: A
Height: 6017m - 19740ft
Latitude: 27.92916600
Longitude: 86.68092700
Location: Khumbu
Duration: 18 Days
Days 1-6:
Flight from Kathmandu to
Lukla. Trek to Namche Bazaar and
rest to acclimatize. Enter the Gokyo
Valley and reach base camp close to
Gokyo Lake.
Days 7-15:
Days 16-18:
Return trek to Lukla and
flight to Kathmandu.