Page 41 - Nepal Mountaineering Association

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Mera Peak lies to the south of Everest and to the north-east of the airstrip
at Lukla, standing prominently between the wilderness valleys of Hinku and
Hongu. Mera Peak is second only to Island Peak (6,173 m) in popularity with
nearly 6,000 people attempting it between 2006 and 2010. Its popularity
comes from the fact that five of the world’s 14, 8,000 m mountains are visible
in the near distance from the summit and getting to the summit from base
camp is considered not much more than a mountain walk across a crevassed
glacier.
Its high altitude must be respected, however, and acclimatisation must be
done at the recommended pace ideally reaching the summit 12 days after
leaving Lukla. Many people fail to reach the summit because of this – there is
no quick way to climb a mountain of this height.
Sen Tenzing and Jimmy Roberts made the first successful ascent of Mera
Peak on 20 May 1953. The route they used is still the standard route. Mera
has two summits. The easier one attempted by most groups, is accessed
by taking a higher line to the eastern summit with its steep last 20 m or so.
The true summit can either be reached by a drop and traverse, beyond many
people by this stage, or by initially taking a more westerly lower line out of the
high camp for a steep haul to the true summit.
There are many options for perfecting acclimatisation. If flying to Lukla,
perhaps first trek to Everest Base Camp, then cross the Amphu Labtsa
(5,780
m), or simply make a short detour to bustling Namche Bazaar first.
Mera Peak
Peak Facts
Permit group: B
Height: 6654m - 21830ft
Latitude: 27.70000000
Longitude: 86.86666700
Location: Khumbu
Duration: 17 Days
Itinerary
Days 1-9:
Fly to Lukla from Kathmandu
and begin the walk to base camp
through green terraced villages, over
rushing rivers on suspension bridges
beneath towering peaks. Cross two
high passes before a final high pass
of 5,300 m, the Mera La, reveals base
camp. Rest and further acclimatize.
Days 10-12:
Climbing.
Days 13-17:
Return to trek to Lukla and
flight to Kathmandu.
(6,654
m)