Page 43 - Nepal Mountaineering Association

The name Kusum Kangru comes from Tibetan meaning “Three Snow-White
Gods”. At 6,367 m, Kusum Kangru dominates the southern end of Charpati
Himal and separates the valleys of the churning Dudh Koshi from the upper
reaches of Hinku Drangka.
The mountain is complex having at least five major ridges and faces, the
most spectacular of which is the North face of the main summit. It is one of
the most difficult of the trekking peaks to climb.
The first successful ascent of the main summit was made by Bill Denz of
New Zealand on 7th October 1981 via the South-West buttress. He also
completed the first solo climb and traverse of the mountain, descending via
the northwest flank. A Japanese team had previously reached a subsidiary
northeast summit on 9th October 1979
A 1988 British Expedition led by Nick Mason conquered the previously
unclimbed East Face. In subsequent years new routes have been opened but
all of them are technically very challenging.
Kusum Kangru
Peak Facts
Permit group: B
Height: 6367 m - 20889 ft
Latitude: 27.73055600
Longitude: 86.79083300
Location: Khumbu
Duration: 17 Days
Days 1-7:
Trek in following the Mera
Peak itinerary to reach the south side
of the mountain. Those climbing north-
facing routes trek to Namche Bazaar
and follow an acclimatization schedule.
Days 8-14:
Climbing days depend on
the route being attempted.
Days 15-17:
Return trek to Lukla and
flight to Kathmandu.