Page 53 - Nepal Mountaineering Association

The dark triangle of its rocky East face rises over the moraines of the Khumbu
Glacier to a spectacular skyline, forming the south ridge. Lobuje has two
summits, East (6,119 m) and West (6,145 m), connected by a continuous ridge.
There is still a sharp gap and a considerable distance between them meaning
they are rarely climbed together.
Many aspiring Everest teams climb Lobuje for acclimatisation as the summit is
the same altitude as Camp 1 and it saves making at least one dangerous trip
through the Khumbu Icefall.
The South East Ridge is the most popular, graded as PD+ on the Alpine Grading
system. Teams, most commonly, climb only to a false summit on the summit ridge
after which it becomes progressively narrower and more difficult) but the views
from here are anyway already stupendous.
From the high camp the route continues up a series of rocky slabs of increasing
steepness to give access to the South-East Ridge proper. About 50 m from the
main ridge the slabs end and there is a 45 degree snow slope to ascend onto the
ridge itself.
The start of the ridge is at approximately 5,670 m and this is also a possible site
for a second high camp to make the summit day easier. Follow the ridge turning
around seracs and ascending the various bumps towards the first summit. There
are no real difficulties although there is a feeling of some exposure along the
way. Between the first/false summit and the true summit there is a considerable
descent which you may need to rappel down before the final 60 m or so.
Laurence Nielson and Ang Gyalzen Sherpa made the first recorded ascent to
Lobuje East on 25 April 1984.
As a guide, this is a more technical climb than more popular trekking peaks such
as Island Peak, Pokalde and Mera Peak.
Peak Facts
Alternative Names: Lobuje can often
be seen spelled Lobuche.
Permit group: B
Height: 6119m - 20075ft
Latitude: 27.95950000
Longitude: 86.78994400
Location: Khumbu
Duration: 14 Days
Days 1-9:
Flight to Lukla and trek
in to Namche Bazaar. Trek via the
Tengboche Monastery and reach
Kala Pattar or Everest Base Camp for
acclimatization. Return to Lobuje East
Base Camp
Days 10-11:
Days 11-14:
Return trek to Lukla.