Page 9 - Nepal Mountaineering Association

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Those who have descended towards Gokyo from Renjo La, or have climbed
up Gokyo Ri, will remember the view towards Cholatse on the opposite
side of the valley. It’s a stunning, laid-back-looking peak composed of steep
faces and narrow snow and ice ridges. Unlike many of the trekking peaks, all
routes to its summit involve sustained technical difficulty and for this reason
Cholatse has attracted many of the world’s best mountaineers to attempt
new, highly challenging routes.
Permits were first issued in spring 1982 and the peak was first scaled soon
after. It was the last formally named but unclimbed peak in the Khumbu
region. On April 22nd Vern Clevenger, Galen Rowell, John Roskelley and Bill
O’Connor reached the summit via the South West Ridge. The South West
Ridge is perhaps the easiest route on the peak and it was only repeated in
1993,
again in 2005 and rarely since then. The South East Ridge was first
climbed in same year.
The North East Face was successfully scaled in 1984 and the first solo
ascent was accomplished on April 15, 2005 by Ueli Steck. Remarkably he
reached the summit via a direct line in a 37 hour push from base camp with a
single night’s bivouac on the face.
Peak Facts
Alternative Names: Jobo Lhaptshan
Permit group: A
Height: 6440m - 21128ft
Latitude: 27.90265900
Longitude: 86.76929000
Location: Khumbu
Duration: 16 Days
Cholatse
Itinerary
Days 1 to 6:
Fly from Kathmandu to
Lukla and trek via Namche Bazaar
to Cholatse Base Camp. There is
plenty of opportunity to explore the
villages and monasteries on a steady
acclimatisation itinerary.
Days 7 to 12:
Climbing period.
Days 13 to 16:
Return trek to Lukla and
fly to Kathmandu.
(6,440
m)