October 2014

Nepal Mountaineering Association

Issue-101   

Director General of Tourism Department welcomed- 8 Oct
Director General of newly formed Department of Tourism Mr. Tulasi Prasad Gautam was  welcomed at NMA Secretariat.  

NMA's participation in 2014 IFSC climbing world cup- 8 Oct
NMA selected  Mr. Niraj karki and Mr. Pranil Man Shrestha as athletes and Mr. Prem Gurung as sport manager for IFSC climbing competition held in Mokpo, Korea on 11 and 12 Oct 2014. Mr. Karki is the winner of NMA IFSC climbing competition held on 25 Dec and Mr. Shrestha is the winner of heritage Onsight Climbing Competition organized on 23 Sep.

Earlier, a press conference was organized on 8 Oct to to give information about NMA's participation in the competition. IInd Vice President and convener of sports climbing committee Mr. Deebas Bikram Shah shared information about international federation of climbing competition (IFSC) and NMA'S participation in the program. He also informed that climbing competition will be included in Olympic Games of 2024 and we need to be prepared for that competition. Similarly, NMA president Ang Tshering Sherpa mentioned that one of major objectives of NMA is development of climbing sports activities in nepal; hence, it has been organizing sports climbing competition since many years. He also said that due to our capacity on mountaineering field, Nepal has opportunity to win medals in sport climbing international games.

Click to View Photos of IFSC Climbing Competition held in Korea

Support from NRN-Association October 14
Non Resident Nepali association (NRN-association) supported with Rs. 1,00,000/- (One Lakh) to each family of the sixteen families of mountaineers, who lost lives on the avalanche that happened on Everest on 18th April. NRN-association also supported Rs. 7,68,705/- (seven lakh sixty-eight thousand seven hundred and five) to Mountaineering Disaster Relief Education Support Fund.

NMA's participation in UIAA General Assembly 2014 in USA- 14 Oct

Nepal mountaineering association participated in General Assembly of Union of International Climbing and Mountaineering federation (UIAA) held at Flagstaff of Arizona, USA from 15th-18th October 2014. NMA president Mr. Ang Tshering Sherpa, 1st Vice President Mr. Santa Bir Lama, Central Executive Board Member Pemba Dorje Sherpa, Representatives from Ministry Of Culture, Tourism And Civil Aviation- Secretary Mr. Suresh Man Shrestha and Under Secretary Mr. Ram Prasad Sapkota participated in the meeting. The meeting discussed on mountain environment, climbing and mountaineering ethics, access to the natures, mountaineering expedition, training standards, youth climbing and mountaineering mobilization, ice climbing development, UIAA safety standards, medical and anti doping role along with mountain related issues.

On behalf of Nepal Mountaineering Association, NMA President and Honorary Member of UIAA Mr. Ang Tshering Sherpa did presentation focused on mountain, cultural and other tourism products of Nepal. The UIAA is the global organization of the governing body of all climbing and mountaineering activities in the world. UIAA formulate the policies, plans, projections, guidelines, vision, mission, safety standards of climbing equipments, excess to nature, code of conducts, protection of mountain environment, mobilization of youths in climbing and mountaineering field, mitigation of the impact of climate change, global warming, glacial lake outburst floods, safety and securities of all climbing and mountaineering activities which is commonly acceptable to all mountaineering and climbing federations in the world.

Brief Report on the UIAA General Assembly 2014 In Flagstaff, Arizona, USA

The UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) was held in Flagstaff, Arizona, USA from 15–19 October 2014. The UIAA is the highest governing body of all mountaineering, climbing and mountain tourism activities in the world. The General Assembly was mainly participated by officials of national alpine federations/clubs/mountaineering federations and Government officials from all over the world.

Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) President Mr. Ang Tshering Sherpa and Honorary Member of UIAA headed the three-member NMA delegation and Mr. Suresh Man Shrestha, Secretary, Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation, Government of Nepal headed two-member special delegates to attend the UIAA General Assembly and other side meetings. The Nepalese delegation members were:

  • Mr. Ang Tshering Sherpa, Honorary Member of UIAA and President of NMA
  • Mr. Suresh Man Shrestha, Secretary, Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation
  • Mr. Ram P. Sapkota, Under- Secretary, Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation
  • Mr. Santa Bir Lama, First Vice President of NMA 
  • Mr. Pemba Dorjee Sherpa, Central Executive Board Member of NMA

During the meeting many questions were raised to the attention of the Nepalese delegation such as the Mt. Everest incident in Spring 2014, commercial and non-commercial mountaineering and adventure tourism, traffic on Mt. Everest, fixing of ladder at the Hillary Step of Mt. Everest, garbage on Mt. Everest, impact of Climate Change and Global Warming in the high Himalayan regions, recent catastrophe of heavy snowfall and avalanches that occurred on 13 and 14 October 2014 and the threat of glacial lake outburst floods. To respond to these points, Mr. Ang Tshering Sherpa as Honorary member of the UIAA and President of NMA and Mr. Suresh Man Shrestha as Secretary of Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation of Government of Nepal addressed the General Assembly. A summary of their talks, reflecting the view of the Nepalese Delegation, are given below. A full transcript of their talks is in attachment.


Date: 18 October 2014
Venue: Flagstaff, Arizona, USA
Statement given by Mr. Suresh Man Shrestha, Secretary at the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation of the Government of Nepal at the General Assembly of the International Climbing and Mountain Federation (UIAA)


Mr. President,
Distinguished delegates,
Ladies and Gentlemen

On behalf of the Government of Nepal and my own behalf, I would like to extend my warm greetings and best wishes for a grand success of this General Assembly of the UIAA.  The Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation of Nepal is primarily responsible for tourism development and promotion of all tourism activities in Nepal along with its diverse cultures. The Ministry has the vision of developing Nepal as an attractive, pleasing, safe and unique destination in global tourism map through conservation and promotion of natural, cultural and biological diversity and its unique heritages.

As we all know that Nepal has the highest mountain range in the world, Mount Everest is becoming as a dream mountain for every climber. In order to promote new mountaineering destinations in Nepal, the Government of Nepal has recently opened 104 new peaks. Out of them, Nepal has named one peak as UIAA Peak which is 6063m high and is located 15 km west of Mount Everest in honor of the International Climbing and Mountain Federation (UIAA). It shows that Nepal is deeply attached to the UIAA. Nepal has recently introduced various reformations such  as increment in the amount of insurance for mountaineering workers, initiation of individual based royalty system instead of group royalty system, and establishment of education and welfare funds for climbers under the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA).

At the same time, the Government of Nepal formed a peak profile sub-committee under the convener ship of the President of Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) to prepare detailed peak information of 476 peaks including 414 opened peaks and 62 unopened peaks which are potential for climbing in Nepal's Himalayas. The profile will contain all the information of peaks in digital formats as well as booklets which will make mountaineering teams to plan their expedition easily.

Mr. President and Fellow Participants,

Nepal is committed to make our climbing and expedition peaks free of garbage and “human waste”. We also recognize the need for training and developing Nepali mountaineering manpower to provide safe and high quality service on our mountains. It is an extreme sorrow that sixteen valiant climbing Sherpas lost their lives in an avalanche at a height of 5800 meters near Khumbu Ice fall while climbing Mt. Everest on 18th April 2014. We really honored those great climbing Sherpas who exposed themselves for greater risk and endangered their precious lives.  The avalanche was a natural disaster and it is beyond our control. The Government of Nepal has given the responsibility of the management of the education supports of the children of those deceased mountaineers to the NMA. For this purpose the Nepal Mountaineering Association has set up a Mountaineering Disaster Relief and Educational Support Fund to support the families of those deceased 16 Sherpas and the children of Sherpa mountaineers who may be killed in the future while climbing the mountains.  

I am very sorry to inform the sad news to this august gathering of UIAA that just lately in this week on 13 and 14 October, an unprecedented natural catastrophe of heavy snowfall and avalanche in Manang, Mustang, Myagdi and Dolpa region killed around 24 trekkers and mountaineers of various nationalities and more than 20 people are injured. So far around 319 trekkers and mountaineers were rescued till today. Around 100 are out of contact. I would like to express my sincere condolences to all families, Alpine clubs/federations/associations, friends and team mate of deceased trekkers and mountaineers and wish a rapid recovery of injured trekkers and mountaineers. Our hearts are with their families in this time of sorrow. May their soul rest in eternal peace and give courage to the bereaved families to bear this irreparable loss! This General Assembly of the UIAA may pass the heartfelt condolence in honor of those trekkers and mountaineers. Mother Nature reminds us that we are helpless and cannot avoid such occurrences and its consequences.

Mr. President and Fellow Participants,

Everyone may be aware that the Mt. Everest Diamond Jubilee Celebration last year was a grand success. It has increased the confidence of the Government of Nepal and the Nepal Mountaineering Association in marking the Diamond Jubilee of the first successful ascent of world's sixth highest peak Mt. Cho-Oyu this year. The other upcoming diamond jubilees celebrations of 8000m Nepal's Himalayas such as Mt Makalu and Mt Kanchenjunga would be held in 2015 and Mt. Manaslu and Mt. Lhotse in 2016. The UAAA has already decided to organize its General Assembly 2016 in Nepal. Both the UIAA and UAAA General Assembly 2016 along with the marking of historic events of the diamond jubilees celebration of these first successful ascents would be Brand Event in Nepal if the opportunity to organize the UIAA General Assembly 2016 is given to Nepal. The Government of Nepal will fully support these events for their grand success.

Lastly, on behalf of the delegation of Nepal I would like to place on records my sincere gratitude to the organizers of this General Assembly of UIAA and confident that this General Assembly would come with fruitful outcome with meaningful vibrant deliberations.

Thank you.

Power point presentation by NMA President Ang Tshering Sherpa At the UIAA General Assembly on 18 October 2014, Venue: Flagstaff, Arizona State, USA

Mr. President,
Distinguished Delegates and Ladies and Gentlemen.

First of all; on behalf of the Nepal Delegation and myself, I would like to express my sincere thanks and appreciation to Mr. President and all distinguished delegates for allowing me to give a presentation in this august gathering for your kind approval for the venue of UIAA General Assembly 2016 in Kathmandu, Nepal. Both NMA and Gov. of Nepal are fully committed and confident to organize UIAA GA 2016 along with UAAA GA 2016 as a Brand Event in Nepal.

Nepal is a God gifted paradise nestled in the lap of the Himalayas with snow capped mountains, roaring river valleys, ancient preserved cities with towering pagoda temples, cordial friendly people and fascinating folk culture. Mount Everest has put Nepal at the top of the world’s map as an ultimate adventure tourism destination in the world. Nepal offers unique mountaineering, trekking opportunities and cultural experiences to visitors all year around. Other exciting opportunities are river rafting, rock and ice climbing, paragliding, kayaking, cannoning, bungee jumping, sky diving, mountain biking, bird watching, jungle safari, art and cultural experiences.

Nepal is a multi-geographic country situated in South Asia between the two giant nations of China and India. Nepal has a total area of 147,181sq.km. To the north is the Himalayan range, followed by mid-hills and the flat plains of the Terai to the south. It is a country with an extreme range of elevations. The lowest point is 67m above sea level and the highest point is the summit of Mount Everest at 8848m, making her the highest mountain in the world. The climatic condition varies accordingly.

The core of the mountain complex known as the "Himalayas" the "Abode of Snow" is the youngest and highest mountain system in the world. The name is derived from the Sanskrit word "Him" which means Snow and "Alaya" meaning abode. The main Himalayas have series of lofty peaks and pinnacles separated by deep gorges. Each of these mountain peaks or Himalayas in turn send out a web of urges stubbed with numerous peaks. It is not just the height that gives the Himalayas their grandeur, but also the tremendous contrast with the deep valleys that wind between the peaks.

Nepal is a country of contrasts. One would be hard-pressed not to find a landscape or a culture in Nepal that would not remind them of home: from the flat lands where Lord Buddha was born in the ancient times or the highest point on earth where man only set foot in modern times, Nepal has treasures to be discovered for all.

Many know that the highest mountains lie in Nepal but few know the warmth of the people of Nepal. It is this that makes Nepal a second home to those who have ever experienced her first hand. Nepal boasts over hundred different ethnic groups, each with their uniquely own language, culture and tradition. This multi-ethnic diversity, living in harmony for centuries has weaved Nepal into one of the richest cultural tapestries in the world.

The Kathmandu valley itself is a world heritage site, containing the oldest Buddhist monuments and the holiest Hindu temples. Even the city of Patan, Founded by the legendary emperor Ashoka, dates back to the 3rd century BS and is considered the first ever Buddhist city. Only a few kilometers away, the entire city of Bhaktapur, still inhabited, is built entirely of terracotta brick and tiles in the medieval style. Like other cultural marvels of Nepal, Bhaktapur is also a world heritage site.

When one walks into Nepal, one walks straight into a living museum.

Only a few hours from Kathmandu, one enters into lush subtropical jungles teeming with wildlife. Nepal has been decorated many times for its work in the conservation of the world’s natural heritage. In our Nature reserves, amongst others, one can spot the proud one horned rhinos, elusive leopards, peculiar crocodiles and of course the majestic Bengal Tigers. In a world rushing into modernity, Nepal has realized that its future lies in its work in the present, and it has gone to a lot of pains to protect its treasures for its children, so they may also see what we have the privilege to see today.

For thousands of years, Nepal has been a popular crossroads for travellers and visitors; A major trading point for the salt route, a coveted stopping point on the silk route or as a venerated centre of pilgrimage for Buddhists and Hindus. We would like to thank our friends for keeping this so.

Before concluding my finishing note of proposal of UIAA GA 2016, I firmly believe and hope that today’s GA will approve the venue of UIAA General Assembly 2016 in Kathmandu, Nepal and give us the opportunity to extend our warm hospitality. No one understands hospitality like the Nepali people and I would like to welcome everyone to experience this for themselves.

Thank you very much.

Ang Tshering Sherpa
President, NMA
Honorary Member, UIAA
IP President, UAAA

Achievements and Developments at the UIAA Management Committee meeting 2014

  • Addressed criticism of Nepal regarding the negative media coverage in recent times and regained the image of Nepal as a safe and welcoming mountaineering destination.
  • Conveyed to the international mountaineering community to understand Nepal's sincerity and positivity in addressing concerns and problems in Himalayan Mountaineering and environmental protection. 
  • Made the UIAA aware of Nepal's vulnerability to Climate Change and the threats of Glacial Lake Outburst Floods.
  • Delegation of other Himalayan Host Countries: Discussing the challenges and benefits of international recognition of new 8000m peaks, and also hosting a Himalayan Host Countries meeting, Cho-oyu Diamond Jubilee Celebration, International Mountain Day and Mountain Festival in Nepal from 10-12 December 2014.
  • Chairman and members of mountaineering commission, expedition working group, mountain protection commission, Youth Commission and access commission: How to work closer with the UIAA to better promote Nepal's mountain tourism and protection of the mountain environment.
  • Chairman and members of International Ski-Mountaineering Federation: Discussed the possibility to explore the possibility of ski-mountaineering in Nepal. They are ready to give technical expertise and extend cooperation if Nepal should require their assistance.

It is our strong belief that Nepal Mountaineering Association and Nepal Government must continue to participate these extremely important global organizations, so that Nepal's interests can be met, concerns can be voiced and cooperation can be strengthened.

Ang Tshering Sherpa
Honorary Member of UIAA,
President of NMA
Date: 27 October 2014

Also please visit: http://www.theuiaa.org/news-167-UIAA-General-Assembly-News.html

Click to View Photos of UIAA General Assembly 2014

Snow Avalanche Report
Heavy snowfall occurred on......in high Himalaya region due to the effect of Hudhud cyclone entered Nepal from Indian region. There was two days of continuous snowfall in high Himalayan region in Manang and Mustang district. 20 people including 14 foreigners and 6 Nepalese lost their lives and 384 tourists including 216 foreigners were rescued in the snow avalanche in Myagdi, Manang and Mustang districts. Dr. Nima Namgyal Sherpa - Convener of Mountain Rescue Committee was also involved in rescue activity. Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation set up under the coordination of Joint Secretary of the ministry, Suresh Acharya, and Director at the Civil Aviation Authority of Nepal Narendra Bahadur Thapa, Major of Nepal Army Sanjeev Silwal, Superintendent of police at Nepal Police, Ajay Bhattarai, among others.

Amendment in royalty rate for NMA Peaks

As per the notice published in Nepal gazette on 12 February 2014, the royalty for mountaineering in Nepal has been amended for foreign and Nepalese climbers as follows.

Royalty for foreign climber per person in us dollar

S.No.

Mountain

Spring Season

Autumn Season

Winter/Summer

1

Everest normal route

11000

5500

2750

2

Everest other route

11000

5000

2500

3

Others mountain more than 8000 m.

1800

900

450

4

7501m. - 7999 m.

600

300

150

5

7000 m. - 7500 m.

500

250

125

6

6501 m. - 6999 m.

400

200

100

7

Mt. Amadablam (6812m.)

400

400

200

8

Less than 6500 m.

250

125

70

The provision of royalty for foreign climbers will come into effect from 1 January 2015 (B.S. 20171/09/17)

Royalty for Nepalese climber per person in Nepalese Rupees

S.No.

Mountain

Spring Season

Autumn Season

Winter/Summer

1

Everest normal route

75000

37500

18250

2

Everest other route

60000

30000

15000

3

Others mountain more than 8000 m.

10000

5000

2500

4

7501m. - 7999 m.

8000

4000

2000

5

7000 m. - 7500 m.

6000

3000

1500

6

6501 m. - 6999 m.

5000

2500

1250

7

Mt. Amadablam (6812m.)

8000

8000

4000

8

Less than 6500 m.

4000

2000

1000

Royalty for Nepalese climbers will come into effect from 13 February 2014 (B.S. 20170/11/01).

  1. The mountaineering royalty has been totally waived to the mountains situated on mid western and far western development region of Nepal for 5 years effecting from 2070/04/01-2075/03/32 (16 July 2013 to 15 July 2018).
  2. Ministry of culture, tourism and civil aviation of Nepal has expected that the timely amendment in royalty for mountaineering in Nepal will be the milestone for the promotion of Nepalese mountaineering sector around the world.

NMA peaks will also be charged as per the above scheduled royalty fee.
As per the decision of secretary level dated 2071/1/16, the insurance amount for   Sardar, Mountain Guide and High Altitude Walker is fixed as Rs 15 Lakhs. Similarly, medical insurance is fixed as Rs 4 Lakhs.

Garbage deposit to acquire climbing permit will be same i.e. US$ 250.00.